Greddy E-manage FAQ Version 1.8 December 18, 2003 Table of Contents 1. Introduction and Disclaimer 2. Revision History 3. E-manage – what it is and what it isn't 4. Purchasing an E-manage and E-manage options 5. Does it work on my car? 6. Installation problems and pitfalls 7. Tuning and Using the E-manage 8. Other Internet resources for the E-manage 9. The Profec E-01 boost controller and the E-manage 10. The Support Tool cable 1. Introduction and Disclaimer Hello, and welcome to the Greddy E-manage FAQ. This document has been created to assist new E-manage users in understanding this rather powerful and complex fuel computer. This FAQ is a dynamic document and should hopefully be undergoing many future revisions. This FAQ is written and maintained by Dale Clark (rx7guru@clubrx.org). If you have any comments, suggestions, or material to add to the FAQ, please e-mail it to the above address and I'll be glad to add or revise anything in the FAQ. This document has no relationship or impact to Greddy Performance Products USA or Trust Japan. The E-manage, being a fuel computer, can give the user the power to cause serious engine damage if used improperly. The author of this FAQ and the various contributors assume no responsibility for your actions. This is simply a resource to aid in the use of the E-manage – take it as such. 2. Revision History Version 1.0, January 9, 2003 – First draft. Version 1.1, January 9, 2003 – - Added info on rotary switch settings - Added breakdown of jumper settings - Added trick to use spare harness wires - Added trick to use pressure sensor for TPS - Changed text format to add line breaks Version 1.2, January 9, 2003 - - Added breakdown of all the rotary switch settings - Added more web resources Version 1.3, January 13, 2003 - - Created new section, Tuning and Using the E-manage - Added information on the Profec Remote Switch to E-01 section - Cleaned up some wording in the Buying section (Mario) - Added a lot more info in the E-01 section Version 1.4, January 16, 2003 - Added Robyn's breakdown of the ignition switch settings - Clarified the MAP sensor trick section - Added contact info for clone cable Version 1.5, February 14, 2003 - Added Robyn's detailed info on the internal jumpers - Added workaround for the Confirm bug (Vinnie) - Added info on Robyn's 7MGTE ignitor workaround Version 1.6, May 29, 2003 - Added info on serial-USB adaptors - Added warning about plastic caps on E-01 solenoid Version 1.7, October 30, 2003 - Fixed info on JP1 setting in unit (had it backwards) - Updated URL for Mohd's webpage - Added switch setting for Honda S2000 - Added info on firmware 1.36 - Added new URL (OCN Japanese translate) Version 1.8, December 18, 2003 - Put info on finding which JP1 setting to use - Added undocumented switch settings 3. E-manage – what it is and what it isn't The Greddy E-manage is a simple fuel computer designed for Japanese automobiles. The intended purpose is to allow the user to fine-tune the fuel curve of the vehicle to take advantage of various modifications to the car. There are many additional options for the E-manage, allowing the user to put together a system that suits their needs. In its most basic form, the E-manage alters the primary airflow input to the car's ECU. By increasing or decreasing this signal, the ECU will alter the amount of fuel going into the engine. While the E-manage is very powerful and flexible, a full stand-alone ECU is even more powerful. A stand-alone ECU replaces the entire fuel injection system with one that's designed to be easily programmable by a laptop computer. This gives the ultimate in flexibilty, but with a steep learning curve and a LOT of work required to tune in the fuel map properly. It's hard to say at what point it's wiser to go with a stand-alone than a piggyback computer (ie the E-manage) – it really depends on how good the car's ECU is to begin with, the amount of modifications, etc. If nothing else, the E-manage makes for a great stepping stone before going to a full stand-alone – you can learn to tune the car while having the factory fuel map to fall back on. 4. Purchasing an E-manage and E-manage options There are a number of components to the E-manage system. Let's break each one down. E-manage main unit – the main brain of the whole deal. List price is $379, street price is closer to $300. The unit by itself is VERY basic – there are 5 knobs you can adjust on the front of the unit to do a VERY rough fuel map with. IMHO, the computer by itself isn't much, the Support Tool is what makes it shine. E-manage Support Tool – Now we're getting somewhere. Included in the kit is a serial to USB cable and a CD with the Support Tool software. The cable is proprietary, and not a standard cable. The software unlocks the full potential of the E-manage – 16x16 fuel maps, changing airflow meters, using the other optional harnesses, etc. You really need to have the Support Tool for the E-manage to be of any value. The tool retails for $129, with a street price of around $110. Optional Injection Harness – This splices into the stock fuel injectors for control and logging. With this harness, you can directly add pulsewidth to the stock injectors and datalog their activity. You can also directly control 2 additional injectors as well. This retails for $38.50. NOTE: You can buy JUST the ignition harness and use the extra wires for the injector harness. The ignition harness comes with 12 wires and an extra connector to plug into the E-manage. Most cars don't use all the wires – 4 cylinder and rotary cars especially. Look at the E- manage manual, find your car, and find out how many wires you need for igntion control and for injector control. Make sure to add 2 wires to the total if you plan to use additional injectors. If the total is less than 12, buy just the ignition harness and add the extra wires to the main E-manage plug for your injector harness. The injector harness is just some wires with ends crimped on them that you add to the main E-manage plug. Optional Ignition Harness – This splices into the car's timing input, from a crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, or the like. With this you can alter the car's ignition timing. Retails for $41.80. Greddy Pressure Sensor – This is a 3-bar air pressure sensor add-on. With it, you can tune your fuel maps with this sensor's output as the basis for tuning instead of the car's airflow signal input. This is primarily used when you've overrun the capacity of the stock airflow meter. Whether or not you need this is a tough question – it's really best to run the car without it first and see if you're maxing out the stock airflow meter signal before investing in the pressure sensor. Retail price of the sensor is $120, with a street price closer to $100. NOTE – the peak/hold/warning Greddy boost gauge uses the SAME sensor, so you can share that sensor's output with the E-manage. Pressure Sensor Harness – it's simply the wiring harness to plug the sensor into the E-manage. If you're using the boost gauge's sensor, you can buy just this harness and tap it into the boost gauge's harness. Retail is $35. The best setup to start with is the main E-manage computer and the Support Tool. Next would be the injector harness, then the ignition harness, then the pressure sensor. If you need control over ignition timing as a priority, you might want to look into the ignition harness first over the injection harness, or do the trick below to use parts of the ignition harness as the injection harness. Regardless, the pressure sensor is probably lowest on the priority chart - it's moreso something you get when you know you're overrunning the stock airflow measuring device. It might be more of a priority if you have a non- turbo car with a turbo kit and the stock pressure sensor for the car doesn't read boost pressure. Again, it really comes down to what you've done to the car, what you're planning to do, and what you want from the E-manage. The E-manage really works well with larger injectors, and larger injectors are highly recommended. Greddy advertises that you can increase injector size 150% - this is not really a limitation of the E- manage, but of the engine itself. Larger injectors will squirt more fuel at their smallest pulsewidth, and too large injectors will cause idling and running problems. But, additional injectors can be added as well to supplement the stock injectors. The closest competition to the E-manage is the Apexi Super-AFC. The Super-AFC is a very nice and powerful unit, and they both have their advantages and disadvantages. The E-manage is far more capable, but does require a laptop (or the E-01 boost controller) to program. The Super-AFC is simpler, but is self-contained – you program it right on the unit's display. The Super-AFC doesn't handle larger injectors as easily as the E-manage, doesn't control additional injectors, doesn't do ignition timing, and doesn't have datalogging (though it does do some MAP tracing on the screen, but they can't be saved and are tricky to interpret). It's still a great computer, though. The E-manage is really the next step up. When the E-manage came out, there was a big confusion about the Support Tool – supposedly you could only get it from an authorized Greddy dealer when they install and tune the E-manage for you. This has proven not to be the case. You still can't easily get the E-manage from many on-line vendors, but it is available. I recommend purchasing the E-manage and various accessories from Mohd – he's a frequent contributor to the list and manages the Supra E-manage list. The web page is http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/, and he really has the best prices anywhere. You might also want to talk to your local import performance shop – most times they can get the Support Tool and everything and charge a fair price. 5. Does it work on my car? Probably. The E-manage is universal enough that it works on darn near everything, even cars that aren't listed as officially being supported. If it's a Japanese car, it will most likely work. A domestic or European car is another story – most likely the airflow signal altering will work just fine, but ignition might be tricky. If you want to use it on an un-listed car, be prepared to do some head scratching and careful studying of the shop manual to be sure. If your car is listed in the Super-AFC manual, it will probably work on the E-manage. You can use the Super-AFC manual as kind of a "cheat sheet" to find other applications. Check http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage for Greddy's application list. Go to http://www.apexi-usa.com and download the Super-AFC manual to see all the applications and settings for the Super-AFC to see if there's a crossover to the E-manage. NOTE: Apexi just posted the Super-AFC II manual, and it has even more applications in it. Here's a list of all the rotary switch settings compiled from the Japanese and US manuals. There are 3 rotary switches hidden under the faceplate of the unit that you dial to set up the type of car. It uses this information to figure out how to interpret the airflow meter signal and the ignition signal for that car. First digit - Ignition signal type Sets the expected input for the RPM signal. Also sets up how the ignition signal setting will work. 1 - 1 coil (distributor) 3 cyl 2 - 1 coil (distributor) 4 cyl 3 - 2 coil (wasted spark) 4 cyl 4 - 4 coil (coil on plug) 4 cyl 5 - 1 coil (distributor) 6 cyl (only seems to be on the Toyota 1G-GTE inline 6) 6 - 3 coil (wasted spark) 6 cyl 7 - 6 coil (coil on plug) 6 cyl 8 - 8 coil (coil on plug) 8 cyl A - RX-7 13B-REW B - RX-7 13B or 13BT C - RX-7 20B-REW Examples: 1. If you set 2 on a engine with 2 coils, only one ignition will get spark because #2 thinks you have only one coil. 2. Say you have the listed engine 4AGE/MAP/Disty which uses settings 2-4-0 and you have a 4AGZE/MAP/Disty, you can try settings 3-4-0. If the setup doesn't recognize an engine designation that means it won't work. If it detects the same 4AGE but stumbles, it means that it is calculating the spark timing wrongly based on one coil and is out of phase. This will cause extra retarded timing and possibly backfire. You got to find an alternative rotary switch setting from another engine - in this case the Daihatsu L502 which will work, RSS 3-C-2. It runs 2 coil and MAP sensor. 3. The E-manage is not universal. You cannot create your own rotary switch combination. It is factory preset with a range of cars. Second and Third digit - airflow meter type. Notice there are a LOT of potential settings that aren't listed - hmm.... The first 2 numbers are the rotary switch settings, and the second is the airflow type designation. For example, NS_HW-1 is Nissan Hotwire Type 1. These codes are pulled straight from the E-manage manual. NOTE: Some of these are undocumented settings that may only apply to the latest (v.1.36) of the firmware. They are there and work, but some of the applications are unknown. Nissan Hotwire 00 NS_HW-1 01 NS_HW-2 02 NS_HW-3 03 NS_HW-4 04 NS_HW-5 05 NS_HW-6 06 NS_HW-7 07 NS_HW-8 08 NS_HW-9 09 NS_HW-10 0A NS_HW-11 Toyota Hotwire 20 TY_HW-1 (undocumented) 21 TY_HW-2 22 TY_HW-3 23 TY_HW-4 24 TY_HW-5 25 TY_HW-6 Toyota Pressure 40 TY_PR-1 41 TY_PR-2 42 TY_PR-3 Toyota Flap 47 TY_FL-1 48 TY_FL-2 49 TY_FL-3 4A TY_FL-4 Subaru Hotwire 60 SB_HW-1 61 SB-HW-2 62 SB-HW-3 63 SB-HW-4 Mitsubishi Karmann 83 MT_KR-1 84 MT_KR-2 Honda Pressure 8A HN_PR-1 8B HN_PR-2 8C - new settings for Honda S2000 8D HN_PR-4 Undocumented for RSX 8E Undocumented working setting Mazda Hotwire A0 MZ_HW-1 A1 MZ_HW-2 Mazda Pressure A6 MZ_PR-1 Mazda Flap A9 MZ-FL-1 Undocumented AA MZ_FL-2 AB MZ_FL-3 AC MZ_FL-4 AD MZ_FL-5 Suzuki/Daihatsu Pressure C0 SD_PR-1 C1 SD_PR-2 C2 SD_PR-3 There are a number of jumpers inside the E-manage, most of which are obvious to set if you have an application listed in the manual. Here's a breakdown of the jumpers and what their purpose is. Jumper settings inside the E-manage: JP1 Ignition input pullup/pulldown select 1-2 A resistor is pulled down to ground 2-3 A resistor is pulled up the +ve rail * Use 1-2 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to ground * Use 2-3 when the ECU's driver transistor is connected to +ve (5V or 12V will determine JP2's setting) Supposedly you can see the input voltage in the Main Unit Setting Information window. If it's 0v, use 1-2. If it's 5v or more, use 2-3. JP2 Ignition output select 1-2 Output resistor connected to +5V 2-3 Output resistor connected to +12V * This will depend on the ECU ignitor signals output * JP2 enables the e-manage to duplicate the amplitude of the original signal JP3 airflow/VTEC output select 1-2 2nd airflow meter 2-3 VTEC * Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 1-2 for non- VTEC applications JP4 airflow/VTEC input select 1-2 VTEC Jumper off - 2nd airflow meter * Even if you don't have a 2nd airflow meter, leave it on 2-3 for non- VTEC applications * On 1-2, enables pulldown resistor (for use as VTM signal). This is required because the VTM output is inverted with the VTEC out. JP5/JP6 Sub injector drivers Jumper off - Disabled 1-2 - Enabled * Only enable if you're going to control extra injectors with the E- manage JP7 VTEC 1-2 Non-VTEC Jumper off - VTEC * On 1-2, enables pullup resistor (for use as MAF output) There have been a number of concerns with using the ignition harness on 7MGTE powered Toyota Supras (MkIII, late '80s/early 90s). The Supra uses a "weird" ignition coil that's negatively switched that the E- manage doesn't like, and the car won't run or will run poorly with the ignition harness hooked up. Robyn figured out a workaround circuit to invert the signal so the E-manage can correctly deal with it. Download schematics/info here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/files/Install%20docs/7mgteI gnitor.zip 6. Installation problems and pitfalls The biggest trick to installing any type of electronic device in your car is make SURE you have good quality electrical connections. Wrapping two wires together and putting some electrical tape around it won't cut it. You need to crimp, solder, or crimp and solder ALL connections. Take your time with the installation – if you rush or hurry, you will run into problems. Double-check all the connections in the manual. The grey wire is usually a source of mystery – it's purpose is buried in the Support Tool manual. That's the wire for the TPS – hook it up to your car's TPS and you're golden. Make sure, especially if you have an older car, that you have good grounds and connections throughout your car's electrical system. Flaky grounds and poor voltage can cause all kinds of weird problems that can be compounded by aftermarket electronics like the E-manage. The E-manage is NOT a sealed ECU, so it really does need to be mounted inside the car. Trunk or the like would probably be OK, just make sure it has some measure of air space around it for ventilation. Don't mount it outside the car or in the engine bay! If you are experiencing a no-start problem or have problems with the ignition not working right, change jumper JP2 to position 2-3. This helps in many circumstances. There is also updated firmware for the E- manage available at http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage - this is also supposed to help with some ignition problems. Supposedly the latest version (1.36) fixes problems with ignitors overheating and numerous other things - well worth upgrading. If you have an older car with a narrow range throttle position sensor (old RX-7's, some Toyotas, etc.), there are a few tricks. Easiest is to get a boost sensor of some kind and tap into that signal – most boost sensors are 0-5v outputs, just like a TPS. With the boost sensor, you dial in your airflow map with boost on the vertical axis instead of throttle position. Works quite well! There is a small bug in the Support Tool software. Here's info and a workaround: This procedure is for those who have problems using the Support Tool on the laptop. There are scenarios where if you use the PARAMETER SETTINGS and "Confirm" your changes, it will cause your car to not run/idle properly and not all parameters are saved to the E-Manage unit. This seems to exist for Support Tool 1.11 and previous. Questions, feel free to email vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com 1) Turn your car to ON 2) Go to the FILES section of the yahoo group and download the latest US language and the latest Main unit operating system. 3) Bring up your support tool to ONLINE 4) Go to COMMUNICATION and click on MAIN UNIT UPDATE 5) When it prompts you to TURN OFF MAIN UNIT, turn your key to OFF position. 6) Click OK 7) Turn ignition to ON 8) Bring up your support tool to ONLINE. 9) Go to SETTINGS and click on PARAMETER SETTINGS 10) Make all your changes and select relevant maps. If you do not have the additional harnesses, check the "Air Flow Adjustment Map". Also set your Throttle Setting. 11) Click on CONFIRM. It will pop up asking you to turn off ignition once. Go ahead and turn ignition to OFF. Click OK. 12) Turn ignition to ON. Reconnect support tool so it is ONLINE. 13) Go to COMMUNICATION and then click on EXPORT DATA. 14) Once that is done, click on CONFIRM for any pop ups you get. Then turn the ignition to OFF. 15) Turn the ignition to ON and proceed to turn the car ON. From this point on, NEVER reconfigure the PARAMETER SETTINGS or export to main unit!!! This is what screws things up. Any change you make on your air-flow map are automatically updated with the main unit thus there is no need to "export". Every time you start up your support tool and want to modify the maps on the main unit, just IMPORT from the main unit and proceed to modify it. But again, never mess around with the PARAMETER SETTINGS or EXPORT to main unit unless you go through the steps above again. There have been some questions about using a USB-serial adapter on a laptop that doesn't have serial ports to hook up the Greddy support tool cable. The Belkin FSU-109 adapter has worked for some people, but it didn't for one person - for them, the IOGear GUC232A worked perfectly. Just make sure whatever adapter you get can be returned to the store in case it doesn't work. 7. Tuning and Using the E-manage One big source of confusion on the E-manage is its ability to let you use different airflow meters. While this can be done, there are some limitations and rules to play by. First off, you can only change an airflow meter for another meter of similar type. For example, if you have a hotwire airflow meter, you can use ANY hotwire airflow meter, even if it's from another manufacturer. The software/firmware only has Japanese airflow meters listed - US AFM's could be used in theory, but you'd have to find its Japanese equivalent. Anyhow, if you have a flap-type airflow meter, you can only use another flap-type; if you have a Karmann, you can only use another Karmann. This option might be helpful for Subaru owners who have had problems with less-than-durable airflow meters - might be able to swap to a Nissan unit, or even another Subaru unit that's hardier. It's also an easy way to upgrade - Nissan has 80 and 90mm airflow meters! Second, you can't get rid of the airflow meter and use a MAP sensor. Even if you add the optional Greddy pressure sensor, you must still have an airflow meter in the system. The Greddy pressure sensor simply adds another basis for your fuel maps in the E-manage - you can use it to tune your fuel maps instead of the input from the airflow meter (very useful if your airflow meter has run out of range), but that's all internal to the E-manage. 8. Other Internet resources for the E-manage The Yahoo! Groups mailing lists are the best places to start – The big universal E-manage list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage This page also has numerous files in the Files section, an install database, and more. The Supra MKIV specific E-manage list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/e-manage Subaru E-manage list http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaru_e-manage Mohd's E-manage site with sales, copies of the manuals, etc. http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage Greddy USA's page http://www.greddy.com Greddy (Trust) Japan's page http://www.trust-power.com Japanese E-manage FAQ http://kkano.hp.infoseek.co.jp/e-manage/ Another Japanese E-manage site http://www.site-free.com/e-manage/ Translate Japanese pages to English http://world.altavista.com http://www.ocn.ne.jp/translation/ - I like this one the best. The page is in Japanese - paste in the URL, pick the second radio button, then press the button beneath that. Toyota engine codes explained http://www.toymods.org.au/engine_codes.html List of Nissan engine and chassis codes http://www.freshalloy.com/cars/nissan/super_matrix.html E-manage install on a Ford http://home.earthlink.net/~twilson1726/greddy.htm E-manage install on a MKIV Supra http://mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/2gz-gte_install/index.html E-manage install on an SW20 MR2 http://www.wraithmr2.com/einstall.htm 9. The Profec E-01 boost controller and the E-manage Greddy JUST released the new Profec E-01 boost controller to the US market. Information is still light on the unit, but it does allow you to hook the E-manage directly to it and fully tune and control the E- manage. You don't have to have the Support Tool to use the E-01 to tune it – just buy a regular A-B USB cable from a computer store and you're good to go. Not only is the E-01 a boost controller, it's also a central data and information system. The E-01 will record data, monitor information on the screen, give you peak/hold/warning features for any data streams it's monitoring...it really complements the E-manage well. Even if you don't intend to program the E-manage with it, it's really a handy tuning aid as a laptop is rather cumbersome to keep in the car and watching at all times! The E-01 comes with the 1.29 firmware and updates the E-manage the first time it's plugged in. This updates the E-manage to work with the E-01, and should also include the ignition fixes in the 1.29 update. The E-01 can fully control and program the E-manage. With the E-01, you can record and monitor the E-manage's inputs/outputs, tune the various maps, set up the unit, etc. You can save up to 3 maps in the E-01's memory card and rather easily switch between them. In theory, you can have multiple memory cards and swap in different maps. The E-01 seems like a pretty good way to tune the E-manage, but initial tuning should probably be done with a laptop. The E-01 is really better suited for doing "tweaking" to your fuel maps instead of heavy number-crunching tuning. Part of this is just the limitation of the display, lack of an Undo function, etc. The E-01 is also supposed to share its boost sensor with the E-manage - there is an optional cable that goes from the E-01's COM port to the Boost Sensor port on the E-manage. The E-01 can also datalog input from Greddy peak/hold/warning gauges, albeit only one can be connected at a time. There is an option for the E-01 and the original Profec A and B boost controllers call the Remote Switching Option. This is a small wireless steering wheel remote with a button, a small receiver, and a cord to plug it into the boost controller. The cord that plugs into the boost controller looks EXACTLY like a stereo mini-plug. In theory, a remote switch could be made - I have a feeling the circuit is relatively simple. The function of the switch is to change from high to low boost setting and back. It's a little pricey at $100 or so, making a DIY unit very interesting indeed. I will begin work on a separate E-01 FAQ - it's a complicated enough unit in and of itself to warrant it's own document. One word of caution - the E-01's boost solenoid ships with small plastic caps over all the holes in the solenoid. These must ALL be removed before use - leaving the unused port capped will result in overboosting! Remove them all, install the appropriate hose nipples, and you're good to go. 10. The Support Tool cable This cable is a special cable of some kind – it doesn't seem to have any advanced logic, but it is weird and special enough that you can't just get one at a computer store. It plugs into your computer via the serial port and into the E-manage with a USB plug. END OF FAQ